A Labrador Can Have Zits?

Yes, believe it or not, labradors can develop them just as a person can. Canine acne can pop up on your dog’s face, chin, or lower lip. It appears like small black spots that, if not washed regularly, may turn into crusty patches that cake and bleed.

Your dog won’t worry about acne preventing him from getting a date, but he may be bothered if the acne builds up. He may try to scratch it off with his toenails, causing the area to bleed and possibly turn raw. Dogs with oily skin are more susceptible to getting acne than their drier-skinned counterparts, and a dog’s food bowl may be part of the problem. Here are a few dog acne prevention tips:

1. Keep your Labrador’s chin clean and free of the unsightly blemishes by washing it with a soft cloth and warm water once or twice a day. If the area has begun to bleed, wash it with some hydrogen peroxide on a cotton ball to fight infection.

2. A way to help your Labrador from developing zits or to keep a current case of it from getting worse is to avoid plastic food bowls. Plastic bowls retain oils that add to your dog’s acne problem, as his chin rubs against the bowl when he’s busy snarfing down dinner. Replace those oil-ridden plastic bowls with aluminum, glass, or lead-free pottery and china bowls.

3. Wash you dog’s food bowls daily with a mild dish detergent to remove oily deposits.

A Condition Known As Incontinence & What It Means To Your Labrador Dog

What happens when your Labrador loses the ability to control his bowel movements? What do you do when you realize that your well-trained life companion who has been potty trained for years all of a sudden starts urinating and defecating all over the house? Well instead of punishing your dog and making matters worse, you may want to look into the fact that he may have a condition known as incontinence.

Incontinence is the inability to control urination and/or defecation. The same term is also used to describe the reduced control that is sometimes apparent in geriatric animals. The condition can be very upsetting to owners, as it warrants constant vigil to avoid cleanups. Many owners believe that the affected animal is either uncomfortable or in poor health. Some owners are repulsed and unable to cope with this type of problem.

Incontinent dogs should be carefully examined by a veterinarian to determine whether the problem is due to old age (lack of sphincter control) or a condition that can be treated. Urinary incontinence could be caused by conditions of the bladder and urethra. A relatively common cause in older spayed female labradors is reduced estrogen levels. This type of condition may respond well to hormone treatments.

Fecal incontinence has been associated with damaged anal sphincter muscles, which perhaps can be surgically repaired, or injuries to the lumbar or pelvic area, with results from a nerve damage. Nerve disorders usually are difficult to treat. Where loose stools associated with improper feeding are a part of the problem, dietary adjustments may be helpful.

The saddest situation is one in which the dog owner, unaware of possible corrective measures, believes that incontinence cannot be cured and automatically warrants euthanasia. Even if the problem cannot be handled medically, some minor adjustments may make the incontinent dog easier to live with, and thus prevent the injustice of sending a faithful companion to his death.

Take this example: An 11 year old, spayed, female labrador dog is healthy in all other respects, but had had urinary and fecal incontinence for about 1 1/2 months. There are several things that a veterinarian might do for the dog. With a diet change and medical treatment, the incontinence could be reduced to the point where the diapers and bloomers were working acceptably. Other affected dogs have responded well to paper training or installation of a pet door.

A 14-Pint Checklist For Newborn Labrador Puppies

When your newborn Labradorpuppies arrive, you can quickly assess their health by utilizing the following physical checklist:

1. Head and neck: check mobility, rooting reflex and position at rest and during movement.

2. Skull: check size, shape and the fontanelle.

3. Ears: check size and position.

4. Eyes, eyelids: check for neonatal ophthalmia. Eyelids may open early: observe carefully for signs of inadequate tear (duct) production.

5. Nose: check nostrils’ shape; presence of fluids (clear discharge, milk, mucus, blood, pus).

6. Mouth: check for cleft palate (puppies usually cannot nurse effectively and milk exudes from the nostrils and mouth, and the puppy cries plaintively).

7. Skin: check for wounds caused by an overexcited dam; hydration, gently pinching the skin directly behind the occiput; the coat and weight for indications of a premature birth; paws for bedding irritation or deformity.

8. Legs and joints: check for deformity, soft tissue and joint swelling indicative of injury; freedom of mobility range.

9. Tail: check for deformity, length and mobility.

10. Spine: check for deformity, body length appropriate to breed; watch for range of motion.

11. Abdomen: check the skin color, which should be pinkish. Pallor can be indicative of internal trauma or hemorrhaging; check umbilicus for signs of infection (swelling or discharge).

12. Chest: listen carefully for breathing difficulties; check nursing ability, muscle tone and activity level.

13. Rectum: check for redness, swelling, diarrhea (which could be signs of infection, overeating or environmental sensitivity). Observe the dam for signs of excessive attention.

14. Genitalia: check appearance and position; watch for inflammation from excessive maternal attention or inappropriate sibling nursing.

The Origin Of The Lab

There are many theories as to the origin of the breed known today as the Labrador Retriever. One point on which all historians seem to agree is that the Labrador originally came from Newfoundland. They were known by several names like the St. John’s Water Dog, the Little Newfoundlander and the Black Water Dog, before officially being dubbed the Labrador Retriever.
Some believe that the Labrador was developed by the fishermen off the coast of Newfoundland and that he was the result of an attempt to scale down the Newfoundland dog. In other words, they wanted to produce a somewhat smaller dog because the Newfoundlands were a bit cumbersome.
The dog had to be a good retriever. He also had to have good bone and strong limbs to pull heavy loads. He needed a dense coat thick enough to withstand the cold water, but one that would not ball up with ice. He had to be eager to please, able to swim great distances and happy to live on a diet of fish and whatever else could be scrounged up. The Labrador became that dog.

The Natural Instinct Of A Labrador

The Labrador Retriever was developed by sportsmen to work in the field and retrieve game. Luckily the breed evolved quite naturally, with improvements being made by educated selection from within the breed itself, rather than the “quick fix” of an out-cross to a breed with desirable qualities. This has yielded an overall steadiness to the inheritance patterns of the Labrador’s temperament and structure (conformation).
This steadiness enhances the quality of the average specimen, which means that with rare exception, today’s typical Labrador Retriever will be able to perform the task he was originally bred for, whether ever asked to do this or not.
The overall quality of the average breed is the best indicator of the condition of a breed. A quality Labrador should be endowed with an instinct to retrieve and a conformation that allows the dog to fulfill his working potential effortlessly. Such work requires a strong dog with staying power.
The Labrador Retriever must be able to work long and hard, running in overgrown terrain, swimming in turbulent waters, and carrying a downed bird for long distances. The compact, well-balanced body of the Labrador enables him to fulfill his purpose by design.

The Great Labrador

The Labrador Retriever’s keen sense of smell and ability to train have earned him a place in many police and military forces around the world. During World War II, Labrador Retrievers were used throughout Europe to scout fields for undetected land mines. They were credited with many finds and exhibited a stick-to-it-iveness not found in other breeds that were tested for the job. They have also been trained as messengers to cover terrain that is all but impassable by man.
Many municipalities currently employ the services of skilled Labrador police dogs. They are primarily called upon for scent-discrimination details, such as tracking criminals in buildings or detecting hidden narcotics, weapons, and bombs. Once a substance has been detected, the dog does not retrieve the material unless specifically ordered by his master, but rather indicates the location to his trainer. This is to insure against possible injury to the dog.

Labrador Retriever Coat Color Inheritance

There are three acceptable coat colors in the Labrador retriever: black, yellow (with variation from fox-red to light cream), and chocolate. Black is the most common color, but the numbers of yellows and chocolates are on the rise.
Coat color is determined by the type of genes received from each of the parents. Black is the dominant color genetically. Simply put, if there is a black gene present in the dog’s makeup, the dog will be black. A yellow coat is produced when a dog receives a recessive gene for this color from both of its parents. In the absence of a dominant black gene, the recessive genes can be expressed. Because of this, a black dog can produce yellow or chocolate offspring if it carries both a dominant black gene and a hidden recessive.
The chocolate color is also a recessive, but many variables come into play regarding the inheritance pattern of this color. The recessive chocolate factor can be carried by both black and yellow labradors. There may also be a crossover or modifying effect involved with the chocolate recessive, because in several generations of breeding chocolate to chocolate a breakdown in pigmentation, eye coloring, and overall coat color often occurs.

How to Stop A Dog Fight

labradors usually will not start a fight, bit if another dog starts one your dog will certainly defend himself. Stud dogs often fight one another, and some dogs become jealous of their owner to the point of fighting any dog that comes near the house or car.
It is dangerous to try stopping a dog fight. While fighting, the dogs are emotionally out of control and may bite a person at this time. It is no use shouting at them to stop and you should not try to separate them, as the dogs are generally stronger than you are. The most effective way to stop a fight is a pail or two of water dumped on them or best of all a hose with spray nozzle attached and the water turned on full force.
Since fights often happen near the house, it might be wise to keep a hose in readiness if you have the bad luck of possessing any dogs that do not get along together. labradors are not at all of mean temperament, and they are certainly not bred to be fighters. However, certain dogs (male or female) may form dislikes and it is usually rather hopeless to attempt reconciliations and more practical to prevent encounters which can lead to fighting.

Feeding Your Older Lab

Keep in mind that as your Labrador ages, he will need less food to maintain a constant weight. With elderly dogs it is important to cut back on the amount of protein (particularly meat) that is ingested, because high levels of protein can put a strain on the kidneys.
Overweight dogs should be brought back into their ideal weight, primarily through gradually increasing the amount of their daily exercise. Cut back on the number of calories in the dog’s diet by substituting low-calorie fillers such as grated carrot or apples, unsalted popcorn, or low-fat cottage cheese for a portion of their meal.
Underweight dogs can be brought up to a good weight by adding high-calorie boosters to their meals, such as an occasional raw egg, cheese, or hamburger. Such caloric supplementation may also be needed during the winter if your Labrador is kenneled or worked outside much of the time, and during peak working periods when extra calories are burned. A high-calorie supplement can be purchased from your vet, pet stores, and online catalogs.

Choosing Healthy Treats For Your Labrador Retriever

Put table scraps where they belong, in the garbage, not in your dog’s food bowl. Many people think that giving your Lab that nice chunk of fat from their sirloin will add luster to his coat. While it may put joy in his heart, it may also give him loose bowels. An occasional veal bone, if very sturdy (a knuckle, for example), can give him a tooth cleaning and some jaw exercise, but be careful, since most bones are constipating as well as dangerous (an ingested splinter of bone can be fatal).
Nylon or rawhide “bones” are safest. They are available in most pet stores, groceries, supermarkets, and online. If you want to give your dog more than his everyday food (even though dogs generally do not get bored with their meals, unlike humans), try small amounts of fruits, cereal, and vegetables. They do not upset the intestinal tract by their oiliness or indigestibility, and actually promote effective digestion. You may also try well-trimmed (no visible fat) bits of meat. However, a dog raised on snacks of sirloin tips will not take kindly to a change to vegetables, so pursue this course with considerable caution.